Cabinet Set-Up

To remove your cabinet from the pallet, use a 3/4" socket to unscrew the four bolts under the legs. Then lift the cabinet off the pallet by the frame. Next, install the adjustable feet. Place the cabinet in its permanent location

Adjust the feet to the proper hight. text to make sure the cabinet does not rock. Use a 3/4" open-end wrench to tighten the nuts against the bottom of the legs.

Install the magnetic base lamps in the cabinet on any wall. Feed cord through rear holes on the left and right side of the cabinet. Leave enough slack inside the cabinet to allow the lamps to be placed anywhere in the cabinet without having the cords stretched across the work area.

Plug the lamps into the power supply mounted on the side of the cabinet. Install the rubber grommets on the cords, and slip the grommets into the holes on the side of the cabinet.

Clean the inside of the windw. Stick on of the clear mylar window shields to the inside of the cabinet window.

Vacuum Hook-Up

Attach the vacuum hose adapter (ferrule)that is supplied with the vacuum over the 2 1/4" hole on the side of the cabinet. Use the four small hex-head self-tapping screws that come with the cabinet. A small amount of silicone sealer applied to the base of the adapter will prevent dust leakage. Plug the vacuum into the power supply mounted on the side of the cabinet.

Blaster Hose

The front holes on each side of the cabinet are for the blast hose. Most right-handed people prefer the hose to enter from the right side, and vice versa for "lefties". The hole that is not used should remain plugged. In order to feed the hose through the hole, the nozzle-end assembly will have to be removed. when replacig it, be certain that it is properly secured in the hose before using the blaster.

Feed enough hose into the cabinet to make a loop. This will give you much more flexibility and freedom of movement than if you tried to constantly adjust the hose length by pushing and pulling it through the hole. However, the best solution to a stiff sand hose is to use a Glastar Flexible Hose Assembly. This will make your blasting much easier.

The Sit-Down Cabinet requires very little maintenance. The parts most commonly replaced are the plastic window shield, and the door gaskets.

Replacing the Mylar Window Shield

Over time, the mylar shield inside the window will acquire a frosted surface as the result of the abrasive ricocheting against it. the rate at which this occurs will depend on your individual blasting style. but it will need to be replaced on a regular basis. It is a good idea to keep a couple of spares on hand.

Replacing the Door Gaskets

The gaskets are standard 3/4" wide x 1/2" thick light-duty foam weather-stripping, which is available at any hardware store. Pull of the section you want to replace, clean the surface, apply the replacement strip, and trim the ends flush.

Replacing the Viewing Window

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLACE THE VIEWING WINDOW WITH ORDINARY PLATE GLASS! Replace with original factory parts.

Be certain that you follow carefully all the manufacturer's instructions for setting up your compressor, blaster, and vacuum. Double and triple-chyeck everything before blasting, paying particular attention to connectins, pressure gauges, and valve settings.

BE SURE THAT THE CABINET IS CLOSED AND LATCHED BEFORE TURNING ON THE BLASTER!!!

The ball valves usually seen on pressure-pot blasters can reach the early stages of wear fairly quickly, and a small amount of leakage from the "business end" must be considered "normal". In other words, EVEN WHEN THE BLASTER IS "OFF" IT CAN STILL SPIT OUT ABRASIVE PARTICLES!! Treat the blaster as you would a gun: it is always loaded; so don't point it at anything you don't want blasted. It should be treated with respect and handled soberly.

When shutting down for the day, make sure that all power to the lights and vacuum is off, all air valves are shut off, and THE CABINET DOOR IS CLOSED AND LATCHED.

Respiration Protection

WEAR A DUST REPIRATOR, especially when the cabinet is open or the abrasive is being recycled back into the pressure pot. A good respirator is a worthwhile investment - those little paper and rubber band masks are pretty useless for sandblasting. Because of the danger of silicosis, never use sand as an abrasive. Either silicon carbide or aluminum oxide is safer, but there will still be silica dust generated by the abrasion of the glass itself, so always use your respirator

Eye Protection

ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN!!!

Hearing Protection

Hearing protectors are a good idea, too. Some exhaust systems are loud, and they usually stand right next to your ear. Earplugs are ok, but the earmuff types are more comfortable and eaiser to use. Hearing protectors have the added benefit of helping you focus on your work by filtering out the rest of the world.

Hand Protection

The cabinet comes with nylon sleeves. You will need to find some rubber, or tightly woven gloves that fit and give you the combination of sensitive feel and secure grip that you like. Dishwashing gloves work quite well. Experiment with different gloves. They really are an underrated link in the blasting system as far as comfort and endurance are concerned.

These are standard precautions that should be observed no matter what type of cabinet you are using.

BE CERTAIN THAT YOU, YOUR EMPLOYEES, AND ALL OTHERS WHO HAVE ACCESS TO YOUR SANDBLAST FACILITY FULLY UNDERSTAND THE SAFE OPERATION OF YOUR EQUIPMENT!